When the Kelp Horn sounds at Walker Bay

The cliffs are packed with people, wielding binoculars and cameras. In awed silence they stare at the sea below where two large dark shapes are visible in the turquoise water. A whale and her calf have come so close to the shore that you could almost touch them. Then an excited whisper ripples through the crowd and fingers point to the telltale blow of vapour - more whales are frolicking further out in the bay. The patient wait is rewarded with all the breaching and blowing and tail fins out of the water that makes whale lovers go weak in the knees.

Hermanus, less than 150 km east of Cape Town, offers the best land-based whale watching in the world. The 12 km cliff path from one end of the pretty town to the other is a prime viewing spot where whales can be seen from as close as 20 m. Once, whales were hunted from the little fishing harbour. Today Walker Bay is the only whale sanctuary in Africa and Hermanus proudly calls itself 'The Whale Capital of the World'. Whale lovers flock to Hermanus from all over the world.
Those in the know can tell by the 'blow' alone whether it is a southern right whale or perhaps a Humpback or Bryde whale out there in the bay. Southern right whales are the most frequent visitors. The winter months are the peak whale watching season, which culminates in a Whale Festival in the end of September, but whales may still be spotted as late as December. As befits the Whale Capital of the World, Hermanus boasts the world's only whale crier. He constantly scans the bay with his binoculars and sounds his kelp horn to alert whale watchers to a new arrival. The locals claim that the sound of the horn tells them exactly where whales are located. The current whale crier, Zolile Baleni, took over from Wilson Salukazana who ended his career three years ago by representing Hermanus at an international meeting of criers - where he turned out to be the only whale crier, of course.

The number of southern right whales is estimated to be about 3 000 - 4 000 and a major percentage is visiting South Africa's coastline each year. Its northern cousin is virtually extinct. The right whale was ruthlessly hunted because it is rich in oil and baleen and floats in the water when killed. Hence the name - it was the 'right' whale to hunt. Up to 18 metres long, it also moves its bulk of 40 to 80 tons at a slow speed of just 5 to 8 km/h through the southern oceans.

Personally, I must confess that I don't go to Hermanus to watch whales. It is fun to scan the water for big dark shapes but I don't go weak in the knees when I finally spot one. I visit Hermanus because my idea of a perfect weekend is a pretty seaside town with a permanent holiday feeling; with beaches and rock pools, cosy guesthouses, a good variety of cafés and restaurants and an attractive business centre where you can browse around exclusive little shops which have been there long before the chain stores. Shops from which beach gear spills onto the pavement and which are stocked with wonderful things that you don't need but won't find
anywhere else. Hermanus is such a place, and that is why I go there quite regularly.

Most of the shops and cafés and restaurants can be found in the Village Square Shopping Centre and piazza between the Main Road and Marine Drive. There is also a daily craft market and the De Wet's Huis Photo Museum. The town's other museum, just a few steps away, is the Harbour Museum. One of the oldest buildings, dating back to 1875 when Hermanus was still Hermanuspietersfontein, houses the Burgundy restaurant. From the terrace you can look out for whales while sipping coffee and perhaps even dash across the road when the kelp horn sounds.
And then there is Bientang's Cave Seafood Restaurant, hidden so well that you would never find it if you don't know of its existence. Yes, you dine in a cave, in the cliffs, right on the water's edge where whales just about join you at the oyster bar. Bientang was the last known Khoi Strandloper who lived in this cave 200 years ago and apparently communicated with animals. It is said that even in her time whales returned to the bay every year and remained se-
veral months.

Add to this the highly efficient services of a tourist information office which surely is one of the best in the country. Outside the summer holidays you can just step in and they'll find suitable accommodation for you in no time. They keep big folders of all the facilities in the town itself and in the many beautiful suburbs - try Onrus - sorted according to price range and complete with pictures. As soon as you have made your choice the friendly owner is called to make sure that the accommodation is indeed available. This is how on my very first visit I found Eastbury Cottage.
Hermanus is geared for holidaymakers throughout the year. There are plenty of eco-adventure activities on offer and there is plenty to explore in the surroundings. Cape Agulhas is only a short trip away, and not far at all is Gansbaai, the Shark Capital of the World! But that is another story.

By Christina Rockstroh

See www.hermanus.co.za