Patting, purring, playing
It is a catwalk of a different kind - 60 km south of Sesriem - where not only guests of Hammerstein Lodge & Camp have the opportunity to experience Namibia's big cats from closest quarters, but nowadays also those of nearby Hoodia Desert Camp - the new accommodation facility of the family business.
A catwalk is usually associated with fashion shows. At the catwalk of Hammerstein Lodge & Camp, however, the main actors aren't human "kittens" but real big cats. Like Lisa, an eight-year-old leopard. While we watch her, from behind a fence, as she elegantly stalks through the tall grass we suddenly become aware that we have already progressed to the middle of the cheetah enclosure. "Don't worry", Andrea reassures us. "Cheetahs are not as unpredictable as leopards. If you keep your distance they keep theirs". She starts to look for the two cats. We follow - not anxiously, but with a good measure of respect. And then we see the first one, golden skin with black dots, hidden under a bush. This is Cleopatra, Andrea tells us. The slender animal briefly turns over, but doesn't seem to mind the visitors. Nor does Cesar. He lies right behind the bush.
Andrea points out the differences between cheetah and leopard: leopard, for one, are nocturnal, have pale eyes, kill by biting their prey's neck and they are capable of a speed of up to 60 kilometres per hour. Cheetah on the other hand are diurnal, have brown eyes, kill by biting their prey's throat and their speed of up to 150 km/h makes them the fastest mammal on earth. Well, we can immediately check the eye colour. Andrea is right, of course. But we notice another difference: cheetah have black 'tear lines' which extend from the eye to the upper lip, leopard don't.
Lisa follows as we pass her enclosure on the way to the caracals, Romeo and Julia. The desert lynxes have a cub of just six weeks old. And there are three cheetah cubs at the end of the catwalk: Max, Moritz and Sissi. It is even permitted to touch them and they respond with loud purring and playful little bites. Andrea tells us that until recently these cuddly little things were free to roam the lodge's grounds. But then they found their way into the rooms, climbed onto beds and tumbled about on suitcases...
Not only guests of Hammerstein are able to experience this catwalk but nowadays also those from Hoodia Desert Camp, the new accommodation facility of the family business. Hoodia offers the same activities as Hammerstein. Beautifully situated on the bank of the seasonal Tsauchab River, 20 km from Sesriem, the Desert Camp consists of twelve double-chalets. "Hammerstein Lodge is very reasonably priced and more suited for large groups. The new lodge is intended to offer a little more luxury for individual travellers", says Matthew Borteus. A new campsite, also a bit more luxurious and complete with tents, will be opened close to Hoodia Desert Camp by the end of the year. Hammerstein Lodge itself is gradually being renovated as well.
At 15 years old Hammerstein Lodge is one of the first lodges in the region. And there is far more to see than big cats. Of late, two crocodiles are basking in the sun right opposite the leopard enclosure. The neighbour of the cheetah cubs is Hans, a mountain zebra which likes to snap at people. Some 500 antelope - e.g. hartebeest, oryx, kudu - roam the 10 000 hectare game reserve on the other side of the C19. With a little luck you might even spot one or more of the five giraffe during a game drive with the old off-road vehicle. According to Borteus, Hammerstein is the only desert farm that boasts giraffe. If you don't mind walking a few kilometres you can explore Bushmen paintings among huge granite boulders in a wonderful landscape. Hiking fans can also tackle one of the Hammerstein Walking Trails. The trails start - where else - at the catwalk.
Appendix:
The rate for the new Hoodia Desert Camp (twelve double-chalets) is N$ 1200 per person with full board. At Hammerstein Lodge (51 rooms) the rate is N$ 390 per person for bed & breakfast or N$ 220 for bed only. Five rooms are for self-catering. Camping facilities are also available. The entrance fee to the catwalk is N$ 20 per person; a game drive through the reserve costs N$ 140 per person.
Tel. 00264-63-69 31 11
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.hammerstein.com.na
A catwalk is usually associated with fashion shows. At the catwalk of Hammerstein Lodge & Camp, however, the main actors aren't human "kittens" but real big cats. Like Lisa, an eight-year-old leopard. While we watch her, from behind a fence, as she elegantly stalks through the tall grass we suddenly become aware that we have already progressed to the middle of the cheetah enclosure. "Don't worry", Andrea reassures us. "Cheetahs are not as unpredictable as leopards. If you keep your distance they keep theirs". She starts to look for the two cats. We follow - not anxiously, but with a good measure of respect. And then we see the first one, golden skin with black dots, hidden under a bush. This is Cleopatra, Andrea tells us. The slender animal briefly turns over, but doesn't seem to mind the visitors. Nor does Cesar. He lies right behind the bush.
Andrea points out the differences between cheetah and leopard: leopard, for one, are nocturnal, have pale eyes, kill by biting their prey's neck and they are capable of a speed of up to 60 kilometres per hour. Cheetah on the other hand are diurnal, have brown eyes, kill by biting their prey's throat and their speed of up to 150 km/h makes them the fastest mammal on earth. Well, we can immediately check the eye colour. Andrea is right, of course. But we notice another difference: cheetah have black 'tear lines' which extend from the eye to the upper lip, leopard don't.
Lisa follows as we pass her enclosure on the way to the caracals, Romeo and Julia. The desert lynxes have a cub of just six weeks old. And there are three cheetah cubs at the end of the catwalk: Max, Moritz and Sissi. It is even permitted to touch them and they respond with loud purring and playful little bites. Andrea tells us that until recently these cuddly little things were free to roam the lodge's grounds. But then they found their way into the rooms, climbed onto beds and tumbled about on suitcases...
Not only guests of Hammerstein are able to experience this catwalk but nowadays also those from Hoodia Desert Camp, the new accommodation facility of the family business. Hoodia offers the same activities as Hammerstein. Beautifully situated on the bank of the seasonal Tsauchab River, 20 km from Sesriem, the Desert Camp consists of twelve double-chalets. "Hammerstein Lodge is very reasonably priced and more suited for large groups. The new lodge is intended to offer a little more luxury for individual travellers", says Matthew Borteus. A new campsite, also a bit more luxurious and complete with tents, will be opened close to Hoodia Desert Camp by the end of the year. Hammerstein Lodge itself is gradually being renovated as well.
At 15 years old Hammerstein Lodge is one of the first lodges in the region. And there is far more to see than big cats. Of late, two crocodiles are basking in the sun right opposite the leopard enclosure. The neighbour of the cheetah cubs is Hans, a mountain zebra which likes to snap at people. Some 500 antelope - e.g. hartebeest, oryx, kudu - roam the 10 000 hectare game reserve on the other side of the C19. With a little luck you might even spot one or more of the five giraffe during a game drive with the old off-road vehicle. According to Borteus, Hammerstein is the only desert farm that boasts giraffe. If you don't mind walking a few kilometres you can explore Bushmen paintings among huge granite boulders in a wonderful landscape. Hiking fans can also tackle one of the Hammerstein Walking Trails. The trails start - where else - at the catwalk.
Appendix:
The rate for the new Hoodia Desert Camp (twelve double-chalets) is N$ 1200 per person with full board. At Hammerstein Lodge (51 rooms) the rate is N$ 390 per person for bed & breakfast or N$ 220 for bed only. Five rooms are for self-catering. Camping facilities are also available. The entrance fee to the catwalk is N$ 20 per person; a game drive through the reserve costs N$ 140 per person.
Tel. 00264-63-69 31 11
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.hammerstein.com.na
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