Minerals, montane forests, fossils and caves, the Karstveld, a region much neglected by tourism

Most glossy adverts for travel in Namibia show either stark desert scenes or lush riverside settings of the Kavango and the Caprivi. But Namibia has many other attractions to offer, not the least being the so-called Karstveld, the area demarcated by the towns of Otavi, Tsumeb and Grootfontein.
The southern Namib boasts the highest floristic diversity of all desert regions of the world, while Impalila Island at the opposite and far north-eastern corner of the country harbours the greatest diversity of plants in all of Namibia. However, in the so-called Otavi Mountain area the floristic regions of the northwest and those of the Kavango overlap with those typical of the Karstveld, thus providing almost as much diversity, not only of plants but also of insects, small mammals and bird life.

Comprising jagged dolomite hills covered in lush montane woodland, the Karstveld is also much more accessible than the southern Namib or the north-eastern river regions. After the Caprivi, the Karstveld receives the highest rainfall in Namibia and so we find a large variety of thornless trees such as the Tambotie (Spyrostachys africana), the Marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea) and many others as well as a multitude of smaller flowering plants. Most of the trees with the spreading crown covering the hillsides are Common Kirkias (Kirkia acuminata). The blue green foliage in between the Kirkias is that of the Blueleaved Corkwood (Commiphora glaucescens) with particularly beautiful coppery bark peeling off in papery strips or in round flakes.
On patches of wind blown sand in the valleys you will find the Silver Cluster-leaf (Terminalia sericea) with lovely silver green leaves and rose-coloured two-winged fruit. Also on sandy soil you might be lucky enough to see a Violet-tree (Securidaca longependunculata), the common name referring to the distinctive scent of its numerous pink flowers in spring. Otherwise it may be identified by its nut-like seed with a broad hatchet-like wing to one side. The Purple-pod Terminalia (Terminalia prunioides), closely related to the Silver Cluster-leaf, is unmistakeable and found at the base of the hills on soils with a high clay content. Their wine red pods are highly visible towards the end of the rainy season.
Just north of Otavi one can even find the Mangetti tree (Schinziophyton rautanenii), whose main distribution is much further to the north east, or the Tick Tree (Sterculia africana) so called because its blue-grey seeds resemble well fed ticks. Wild fig trees such as the Namaqua fig (Ficus cordata) and the Strangler Fig (F. burkei, formerly F. thonningii) are also quite common. The Strangeler Fig is remarkable in that its light grey bark often envelopes that of the host, giving the appearance of one trunk with two canopies. Eventually the host is killed and one can only see the remains of a dead branch here and there on closer inspection. A tree restricted to the Karstveld is the Omundjimune (Lannea discolor). It usually has a fairly flat-topped crown and is conspicuous in windy weather when the silvery undersides of the leaves show up.

While climbing around on the hillsides you will discover many lesser known trees and shrubs, such as the Blue Kobas (Cyphostemma juttae), various Euphorbia species or the scrambling Wild Grape (Cissus nyphaeifolia) and many others.
In the dolomite rocks of this area one can find examples of what are believed to be the most ancient fossils on earth, namely stromatolites, the fossilised relics of blue-green algae. These algae are the most ancient form of life known to have existed - and in fact still existing today - which, by being able to photosynthesise, millions of years ago significantly increased the oxygen content of the atmosphere thus preparing the way for all other forms of life known today.
Caves - often with stalactites and stalagmites - are an inherent feature of karst regions. That is also true of the Otavi Mountain area, where some of the guest farms and lodges mentioned below have their own caves or provide guided tours to caves in the vicinity.

Tsumeb of course is internationally known for its riches of minerals, specimens of which may be bought there. The Museum in Tsumeb represents the mining past of the area and provides fascinating information on another typical feature of karst regions, namely the Guinas and Otjikoto sinkholes situated to the west of the town. These are of interest as a geological feature, in addition lake Otjikoto was used by the German "Schutztruppe" to discard canons and other weaponry before the approaching South African forces during the first World War. Several of these items, salvaged by voluntary divers, and lovingly restored are now on display in the museum.
Grootfontein, the last opportunity to stock up on supplies when travelling to the Kavango and the Caprivi, also has a very worthwhile museum, representing the colonial history of the surrounding area. About 20 km to the west of this town you can admire the Hoba meteorite, the largest single meteorite known in the world today. There is a kiosk offering information and there are a number of camp sites. The Hoba meteorite is situated in a fertile valley which produces much maize, one of the staple foods of Namibians.
The area has so much to offer that it is well worth spending a number of nights there and the following are some facilities that can be highly recommended:
Gabus Game Ranch - [email protected]; www.natron.net/tour/gabus - offers individual chalets set in a lovely garden, very friendly and knowledgeable hosts, an excellent cuisine as well as a variety of game and beautiful scenery - also a veritable 'forest' of Mangetti trees, which is very unusual for this area, for they otherwise mostly occur on the dunes of the Kavango area. On your way to Gabus Game ranch you pass through a the largest accumulation of Wild Olive trees (Olea europaea subsp. africana) in Namibia, which are particularly common on the calcrete plains around Otavi.

Ghaub Guestfarm - [email protected] - situated near the intersection of D2863 and D3022, right in the heart of the Karstverld, dates back to early missionary activitiy around the beginning of the 20th century. Accommodation is in spacious, beautifully laid out old farm style rooms with shady verandas overlooking a vast expanse of lawn and an inviting pool with a bar. It is on the high ground on this farm that you may find some tree species, which only occur again much further to the north-east. This lodge also offers information on cattle ranching and the growing of rain-fed crops.
Zum Potjie - Potjie Plot Sonop - [email protected] - along the B1 between Otavi and Tsumeb offers shady camping facilities as well as very affordable accommodation in chalets, a farm museum and information on sustainable farming.

Khorab Lodge - reservation@khorabnamibia - right on the B1 3 km south of Otavi, offering 2 camp sites and 10 well-appointed chalets, is an ideal stop-over on a trip to Etosha or the Kavango and the Caprivi
Meteorite Camping - [email protected] - 3 km from the Hoba meteorite on Farm Venus offers camping facilities.
Skeleton Coast Fly in Safaris - [email protected]; www.skeletonsafaris.com offer excellent guided tours and also run a camp in the Otavi Mountains
All the above accommodation establishments have hiking trails along which indigenous trees and shrubs are marked with the southern African tree numbers to aid identification and most of them offer guided tours to those eager to explore caves.