Discovering Shipwrecks & Diamonds (Part 1)

By Erwin Leuschner


The engine roars. Our driver Len Kootjie concentrates on the track ahead as he speeds up a huge dune. The six cylinders of the Land Cruiser work overtime. Just as suddenly as he accelerates the car comes to a dead stop on the tip of a dune. Slowly Len rolls down the massive drop and we all hold on for dear life. Suddenly the entire car begins to shake and the dune roars. No, it’s no earthquake, it’s a humming dune. As the car slowly levels out at the bottom Len once again hits the accelerator - here we go again.

Len is the son of late Topnaar Chief Seth Kootjie. The Topnaar people are a clan of Nama living along the Kuiseb River. For more than 20 years Len has travelled the dunes of the Namib Sand Sea and has visited areas only a handful of people ever got to see. “Us tour guides live in the desert. Even if we are on leave we pack our cars and come back to the desert. I can’t explain it, but the desert is in our blood”, the lusty Topnaar says. “Who better to guide tours into the desert then?” I think to myself.

This is where our story comes in. A while ago Theunis Keulder of Sandwich Harbour 4X4 and Catamaran Charters partnered with Len. Together they developed a truly unique product. Shipwrecks & Diamonds is a fitting name. This three-day adventure includes driving through spectacular dune areas, overnighting in a tented camp close to the ocean, viewing two famous shipwrecks, visiting great historic sites and diamond camps and witnessing amazing flora and fauna.

Our small group left Walvis Bay around 10h00 that morning on our adventure to Meob Bay. Between Meob Bay and Walvis Bay lie 200 Kilometers of near impassable dune terrain. “Anyone need the toilet?”, Theunis asked us one last time as we boarded our trusty Land Cruiser. “Remember this is your last chance at a proper toilet before tonight”, he added. A little uncertain we guests looked at each other not knowing what we got us into. Little did we know that we indeed went on an adventure of a lifetime.

Our first stop was Sandwich Harbour, which used to be a moderately-sized commercial port. Today the remnants of some historic wooden buildings are what remains of this settlement, which was attractive for whaling, fish processing, beef canning and guano collecting. Now this declared RAMSAR site is home to about 50 000 birds during the summer months - truly awe-inspiring!

As we continue south on the beach - which is only possible during lowtide - we pass our first “proper” shipwreck. The tug “Shawnee” wrecked a few kilometers North of Conception Bay in 1976. Looking at the rusty piece of metal in the ocean we are reminded about the reality of Namibia’s harsh coast, which has claimed hundreds of ships.

The sun begins to set and we continue on our southward journey. We pass a few seal colonies and some jackals on our journey to the Namab Tented Camp south of Meob Bay. This will be our home for the next few days. We are literally in the middle of nowhere, cellphone reception is a goner and when we asked for the wifi password Theunis had to laugh - hard. “Rather sit and enjoy the quiet and watch the stars”, he said.
I agree. All our sorrows, worries and troubles we left behind. After a hot shower, some cold beer and some lekker dinner off the braai we finally crawl into our surprisingly comfy beds and fall asleep with the soft rumbling ocean in the distance...
Tomorrow we search for diamonds.