The road less travelled: Namib Naukluft Park offers a rewarding detour to the coast
It is a recurring and distinctly Namibian phenomenon: As soon as a public holiday presents the chance for some relaxation over a long weekend, thousands of vacationers flock to the coast.
Feeling pressed for time most of these travellers use the main tarred road (B2) connecting the central areas of the country to the popular seaside towns of Swakopmund, Henties Bay and Walvis Bay, thus depriving themselves of the much more scenic, albeit slightly more time consuming routes through the northern section of the Namib Naukluft Park.
Holidaymakers who resist the collective rush to the coast and want to reward themselves with a leisurely journey through unspoilt nature can choose between three picturesque mountain routes - being the Bosua, Us and Gamsberg Passes - leading over the central plateau of Khomas Hochland and descending westwards towards the coast through the Namib section of the Naukluft Park. These three public roads (C28, D1982 and C14) don't require a permit and offer a relatively direct, if comparatively slow route to the coast.
For people wanting to explore this unique part of the Namib desert nestled between the Kuiseb and Swakop rivers it is, however advisable to get a permit at Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR), required to drive on the various restricted gravel tracks traversing the park and allowing them to spend a night at one of the eight campsites in the area.
Flora and faunaSuch an overnight stay is virtually a must in order to fully appreciate the vastness and isolation of the northern section of the Naukluft Park which may seem like a barren wasteland at first glance but has much to offer and warrants a closer look. After all the true magic of the desert often reveals itself in small details which are not readily apparent to the hasty traveller hoping to reach his destination at the coast in the shortest possible time.
People who pause to take in their surroundings will be richly rewarded by this section of the Namib which features few dunes commonly associated with deserts. Instead the area is characterized mostly by expansive open plains which seem flat and featureless except for a few rocky outcrops and occasional quiver trees and camel thorns. After a rare rain shower this granite escarpment is transformed into rich grasslands attracting herds of springbok, gemsbok and even Hartmann's mountain zebra that often gather around artificial waterholes like Gemsbockwater, Hotsas and Zebrapan.
CampsitesFittingly for the surreal landscape they are located in, the campsites have alien sounding names like Ganab, Bloedkopje, Kriess-se-Rus and Mirabib. And like their desolate and inhospitable surroundings they offer no facilities to speak of so visitors need to bring there own firewood, water, fuel and provisions. But then these secluded sites are not designed for the demanding camper expecting luxury but rather for nature lovers wanting to enjoy the solitude and tranquillity of a night under the stars.
The most popular of the campsites is the one at Bloedkopje (or blood hill), a large granite inselberg named after the dark red colour it assumes in the glowing sunlight during early morning or late afternoon. The outcrop rises from the Tinkas Flats near the Swakop River and offers the chance to explore the many bizarre rock formations in the immediate surrounding of the camp site. A climb on top of the granite protrusion provides a panoramic view over the plains below, dotted with large quiver trees and aloes with the prominent Langer Heinrich Mountain rising in the distance.
Two other interesting inselbergs where campers can spend the night among the fascinating rock sculptures carved out by the wind are located at Mirabib and Vogelfederberg. At the former there is evidence that this rock overhang was used as a shelter by nomadic people as early as 9000 years ago. The latter of the two sites, being the closest to the ocean, receives the most moisture from oceanic fog, sustaining a whole range of fascinating succulents.
Kuiseb RiverAnother interesting campsite is the one at Homeb, in relatively close proximity to the abandoned Hope Mine and Gorob Mine. Situated at the banks of the Kuiseb River this area is home to a settlement of the Topnaar. The Kuiseb divides the dune belt and the gravel plains of the Namibib and acts as a natural boundary to the shifting sands to the South. Though dry throughout most of the year, the Kuiseb comes down in periodic floods preventing the dunes from moving further North.
Positioned directly at the bank of the Kuiseb and shaded by big acacia trees, the camp site offers visitors the chance to climb the dunes on the other side of the ephemeral river and see how it separates the two different environments to the North and South of it. The unique convergence of these vastly different landscapes and their distinct ecosystems has generated much scientific interest and is one of the reasons why Namibia's Desert Research Centre Gobabeb (see story elsewhere) is situated on the Kuiseb to the West of Homeb.
The Kuiseb is not just exceptional on account of being a natural barrier to the dune belt, but also by virtue of having created the famous Kuiseb Canyon. A picnic site located at the top of a vantage point overlooking the canyon provides a spectacular view over the rugged canyon beneath with the distinctive shape of the Gamsberg in the background. From the view point a footpath leads to a nearby overhang where geologists Henno Martin and Hermann Korn found refuge for three years during World War II as recounted in Martin's book The Sheltering Desert.
Welwitschia DriveApart from the lagoon at Sandwich Harbour near the coast which is fed by fresh water and serves as a sanctuary for a large number of coastal birds, the most popular attraction in the park is the Welwitschia Drive. This round trip, which takes about three hours to negotiate is mostly used for short excursions by day visitors from Swakopmund and features 13 numbered stone beacons indicating particular points of interest.
Among them are the otherworldly Moon Landscape, the famous Welwitschia Plains, the astonishing lichen fields and the oasis of Goanikontes. Some sections of the picturesque route follow the course of the Swakop River which has carved out the lunar Moon Landscape best seen in the slanting light of early morning or late afternoon. It came into existence as the river cut through the softer surface deposits which were laid down some 460 million years ago when the area's climate was wetter than today. The scenery is characterized by dark strips of dolerite rock which were formed when lava welled up through cracks in the existing grey granite. After cooling it formed dark, hard bands of rock which resisted erosion more than the granite and thus formed the spine of many ridges in the area.
Equally fascinating are the extensive lichen fields which cover some areas along the route and consist of small plants which are in fact the result of a symbiotic relationship between an alga, producing food by photosynthesis, and a fungus, providing a physical structure. Some of the lichens that look like fragments of dead plant material that lie loose on the surface are thought to be hundreds of years old, and all are exceedingly fragile. They grow excruciatingly slowly, something an old ox wagon track attests to which was left decades ago and is still clearly visible because the lichens that were destroyed at the time have not yet fully re-established. Since they grow less than 1 mm a year it is extremely important for the ecology of the area that motorists should keep to the existing roads at all times. The lichens survive by extracting moisture from fog in the air and change colour very rapidly if sprinkled with water.
A similarly fascinating plant found along the way is the Welwitschia Mirabilis which is endemic to the Namib and grows on the expanse of gravel and sand in the area. The oldest specimens of this celebrated plant are thought to be between 1500 and 2000 years old. Most of these plants, among them the big Welwitschia which is fenced in are concentrated east of the confluence of the Khan and Swakop Rivers. The Welwitschia consists of only two leaves which are broad and flat and usually split into several different sections. The leaves can grow to a length of between 2 and 4 meters, keeping the soil under them cool and moist. The plant survives the arid conditions by absorbing moisture from fog condensing on the leaves and from underground water it extracts through roots that can grow up to 30 meters deep.
Like the Welwitschia the northern section of the Namib Naukluft Park is unique and well worth a visit. So the next time you take a trip the coast, consider using the road less travelled and go on a journey of discovery through this exceptional environment.
For further information:
Namibia Wildlife Resorts
Tel: ++264 (0)61 285 7200
Fax: ++264 (0)61 224 900
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.nwr.com.na
Feeling pressed for time most of these travellers use the main tarred road (B2) connecting the central areas of the country to the popular seaside towns of Swakopmund, Henties Bay and Walvis Bay, thus depriving themselves of the much more scenic, albeit slightly more time consuming routes through the northern section of the Namib Naukluft Park.
Holidaymakers who resist the collective rush to the coast and want to reward themselves with a leisurely journey through unspoilt nature can choose between three picturesque mountain routes - being the Bosua, Us and Gamsberg Passes - leading over the central plateau of Khomas Hochland and descending westwards towards the coast through the Namib section of the Naukluft Park. These three public roads (C28, D1982 and C14) don't require a permit and offer a relatively direct, if comparatively slow route to the coast.
For people wanting to explore this unique part of the Namib desert nestled between the Kuiseb and Swakop rivers it is, however advisable to get a permit at Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR), required to drive on the various restricted gravel tracks traversing the park and allowing them to spend a night at one of the eight campsites in the area.
Flora and faunaSuch an overnight stay is virtually a must in order to fully appreciate the vastness and isolation of the northern section of the Naukluft Park which may seem like a barren wasteland at first glance but has much to offer and warrants a closer look. After all the true magic of the desert often reveals itself in small details which are not readily apparent to the hasty traveller hoping to reach his destination at the coast in the shortest possible time.
People who pause to take in their surroundings will be richly rewarded by this section of the Namib which features few dunes commonly associated with deserts. Instead the area is characterized mostly by expansive open plains which seem flat and featureless except for a few rocky outcrops and occasional quiver trees and camel thorns. After a rare rain shower this granite escarpment is transformed into rich grasslands attracting herds of springbok, gemsbok and even Hartmann's mountain zebra that often gather around artificial waterholes like Gemsbockwater, Hotsas and Zebrapan.
CampsitesFittingly for the surreal landscape they are located in, the campsites have alien sounding names like Ganab, Bloedkopje, Kriess-se-Rus and Mirabib. And like their desolate and inhospitable surroundings they offer no facilities to speak of so visitors need to bring there own firewood, water, fuel and provisions. But then these secluded sites are not designed for the demanding camper expecting luxury but rather for nature lovers wanting to enjoy the solitude and tranquillity of a night under the stars.
The most popular of the campsites is the one at Bloedkopje (or blood hill), a large granite inselberg named after the dark red colour it assumes in the glowing sunlight during early morning or late afternoon. The outcrop rises from the Tinkas Flats near the Swakop River and offers the chance to explore the many bizarre rock formations in the immediate surrounding of the camp site. A climb on top of the granite protrusion provides a panoramic view over the plains below, dotted with large quiver trees and aloes with the prominent Langer Heinrich Mountain rising in the distance.
Two other interesting inselbergs where campers can spend the night among the fascinating rock sculptures carved out by the wind are located at Mirabib and Vogelfederberg. At the former there is evidence that this rock overhang was used as a shelter by nomadic people as early as 9000 years ago. The latter of the two sites, being the closest to the ocean, receives the most moisture from oceanic fog, sustaining a whole range of fascinating succulents.
Kuiseb RiverAnother interesting campsite is the one at Homeb, in relatively close proximity to the abandoned Hope Mine and Gorob Mine. Situated at the banks of the Kuiseb River this area is home to a settlement of the Topnaar. The Kuiseb divides the dune belt and the gravel plains of the Namibib and acts as a natural boundary to the shifting sands to the South. Though dry throughout most of the year, the Kuiseb comes down in periodic floods preventing the dunes from moving further North.
Positioned directly at the bank of the Kuiseb and shaded by big acacia trees, the camp site offers visitors the chance to climb the dunes on the other side of the ephemeral river and see how it separates the two different environments to the North and South of it. The unique convergence of these vastly different landscapes and their distinct ecosystems has generated much scientific interest and is one of the reasons why Namibia's Desert Research Centre Gobabeb (see story elsewhere) is situated on the Kuiseb to the West of Homeb.
The Kuiseb is not just exceptional on account of being a natural barrier to the dune belt, but also by virtue of having created the famous Kuiseb Canyon. A picnic site located at the top of a vantage point overlooking the canyon provides a spectacular view over the rugged canyon beneath with the distinctive shape of the Gamsberg in the background. From the view point a footpath leads to a nearby overhang where geologists Henno Martin and Hermann Korn found refuge for three years during World War II as recounted in Martin's book The Sheltering Desert.
Welwitschia DriveApart from the lagoon at Sandwich Harbour near the coast which is fed by fresh water and serves as a sanctuary for a large number of coastal birds, the most popular attraction in the park is the Welwitschia Drive. This round trip, which takes about three hours to negotiate is mostly used for short excursions by day visitors from Swakopmund and features 13 numbered stone beacons indicating particular points of interest.
Among them are the otherworldly Moon Landscape, the famous Welwitschia Plains, the astonishing lichen fields and the oasis of Goanikontes. Some sections of the picturesque route follow the course of the Swakop River which has carved out the lunar Moon Landscape best seen in the slanting light of early morning or late afternoon. It came into existence as the river cut through the softer surface deposits which were laid down some 460 million years ago when the area's climate was wetter than today. The scenery is characterized by dark strips of dolerite rock which were formed when lava welled up through cracks in the existing grey granite. After cooling it formed dark, hard bands of rock which resisted erosion more than the granite and thus formed the spine of many ridges in the area.
Equally fascinating are the extensive lichen fields which cover some areas along the route and consist of small plants which are in fact the result of a symbiotic relationship between an alga, producing food by photosynthesis, and a fungus, providing a physical structure. Some of the lichens that look like fragments of dead plant material that lie loose on the surface are thought to be hundreds of years old, and all are exceedingly fragile. They grow excruciatingly slowly, something an old ox wagon track attests to which was left decades ago and is still clearly visible because the lichens that were destroyed at the time have not yet fully re-established. Since they grow less than 1 mm a year it is extremely important for the ecology of the area that motorists should keep to the existing roads at all times. The lichens survive by extracting moisture from fog in the air and change colour very rapidly if sprinkled with water.
A similarly fascinating plant found along the way is the Welwitschia Mirabilis which is endemic to the Namib and grows on the expanse of gravel and sand in the area. The oldest specimens of this celebrated plant are thought to be between 1500 and 2000 years old. Most of these plants, among them the big Welwitschia which is fenced in are concentrated east of the confluence of the Khan and Swakop Rivers. The Welwitschia consists of only two leaves which are broad and flat and usually split into several different sections. The leaves can grow to a length of between 2 and 4 meters, keeping the soil under them cool and moist. The plant survives the arid conditions by absorbing moisture from fog condensing on the leaves and from underground water it extracts through roots that can grow up to 30 meters deep.
Like the Welwitschia the northern section of the Namib Naukluft Park is unique and well worth a visit. So the next time you take a trip the coast, consider using the road less travelled and go on a journey of discovery through this exceptional environment.
For further information:
Namibia Wildlife Resorts
Tel: ++264 (0)61 285 7200
Fax: ++264 (0)61 224 900
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.nwr.com.na
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