Kaokoland: Visit the last untouched frontier
Frank Steffen
Untouched in so many respects, this part of the country seemed to have somehow escape the attention of the colonial era and even after independence was left alone to do their own thing, but ultimately the demands and habits of the rest of the country was bound to catch up with this remote area in the north-west of Namibia. Home of the world-renowned Ovahimba tribe, this area now experiences rapid development, with roads being built and infrastructure developed in what previously were tracks and almost forgotten outposts.
The visitor, who is prepared to drive a little longer in order to enjoy as yet untouched nature and get to know local people, who are simple and trusting, allowing you to visit their land and explore it at your leisure, needs to visit Kaokoland now! Here you learn to trust your instincts again and follow small district roads and hidden 4x4 tracks, going where your curiosity leads you.
Day 1 - Arriving
What used to be a hellish ride on a long dusty road coming up from Kamanjab to the place previously known as Ohopoho, is now a pleasant drive on a tarred road, which leads you along the western border of Etosha National Park past the Hobatere Lodge and Campsite and the Galton Gate (allowing access to the park from the west), thus affording the occasional spotting of game on your way to Opuwo. Let there be no doubt, that this will be your last opportunity to kit up with what was forgotten at home, because Kaokoland requires you to be fully self-sufficient right down to the last drop of fuel.
That first part of the approach journey is long, for which reason you would typically camp or stay in places such as the Opuwo Country Hotel (pleasant camping and luxurious rooms) or alternatives such as the ABBA- or Ohakane Guest Houses. Opuwo Country Lodge is found on the high western ridge bordering the town allowing for some pretty impressive views to the west towards Etanga.
Day 2 - Swartbooisdrif
Some people stay over at Ruacana and prefer to visit the Ruacana Falls, where after they follow the now existing road along the Kunene River towards Swartbooisdrif. The more traditional approach is from Opuwo leading right through the heart of Kaokoland towards the Kunene River - be sure to have lots of sweets for all of the children welcoming you. In our case, coming from Opuwo, we turned towards the north-east at Otjiveze and followed the road on the southern side of the spectacular Zebra Mountains, later turning onto the track leading to the now derelict army camp above the Sodalite Mine. You may choose to camp here - away from the mosquitoes and enjoying the majestic view towards Angola - or settle down along the Kunene River at Swartbooisdrif, which is just a few kilometres downhill and was in the past used by the old Dorsland Trekkers to cross to- or come over from Chitado - Angola.
Day 3 & 4 - The magic Epupa Falls
A leisurely start after breakfast would allow you to follow the new gravel road along the Kunene River to the Epupa Falls. Previously much liked as a 4x4 track (therefore less used way back when), this route still rewards you with most spectacular views, while allowing you to arrive at Epupa Falls in the afternoon. At Epupa you can choose to camp or book into rooms at the Epupa Falls Lodge, Omarunga Lodge or Epupa Camp. We opted for the first and were able to fill up our fuel, which we had pre-arranged and paid to the Lodge in advance, as we would depart from here to the fabled Van Zyl’s Pass.
But before that we settled for a two-night stay, as this area invites you to explore the magic Epupa Falls on-foot and offers a number of opportunities to visit the traditional Ovahimba folks living here. The falls are much smaller than the Ruacana Falls, but so much more impressive to experience, especially during a sun-downer enjoyed on the balcony of the lodge overlooking the falls.
Day 4, 5 & 6 - Rough and tough, but exquisite
Be sure to catch a last shower before departing to van Zyl’s Pass. The road to Okongwati is good, but as soon as you turn westwards towards Etengua (also Etengwa) your maps or GPS need to be up to speed as you drive along the foot of the Baynes Mountains, and your mind should be attuned to the demands of 4x4-driving. Up to Otjitanda the stretch is still reasonable, but requires you to drive patiently. We camped wild just beyond Otjitanda and took the better part of the morning approaching Van Zyl’s Pass on day 5. The approach road these days is a bigger challenge than Van Zyl’s Pass itself, but what a sight when you reach the lookout-point above the pass!
Having navigated the Pass, we followed the tracks along the Marienfluss, which is nestled between the Otjihipa Mountain range lying towards the east and the Hartmann’s Mountains lying in the west, reaching Camp Syncro close to Otjinungwa, where you also find a community camp site. This is untouched scenery, which can be explored and enjoyed for a further day.
Day 7 - Moving to Purros
This day was spent driving up the Marienfluss up to the track intersection known as Red Drum (which is exactly that) and moving onwards past the Marble Mine towards Orupembe, passing Sanitatis and skipping the Khumib River continuing towards Purros, where you find another community camp. All of these camps charge reasonable entrance fees and you find yourself voluntarily paying more than is expected of you as visitor. Along the way you may encounter elephants and lions, and certainly many giraffes.
In our case we opted to move down the Hoarusib River and camped there for the night - early in the morning elephant spoors along our vehicles proved that we had been covertly “visited”. The Hoarusib River is a magic experience.
Day 8 - Saying good bye
Taking the first opportunity to turn South we left the Hoarusib and made our way towards the Tsuxub River and on to the Hoanib River, which is a trip worthwhile doing totally on its own - approaching it from further south via the Khowarib-Schlucht (canyon). In our case we used the Hoanib as exit point moving towards Sesfontein, where we enjoyed a late lunch before parting ways and returning home via Palmwag and Kamanjab or Khorixas. This trip is pure adventure and can only be attempted well prepared and with an off-road vehicle.
Untouched in so many respects, this part of the country seemed to have somehow escape the attention of the colonial era and even after independence was left alone to do their own thing, but ultimately the demands and habits of the rest of the country was bound to catch up with this remote area in the north-west of Namibia. Home of the world-renowned Ovahimba tribe, this area now experiences rapid development, with roads being built and infrastructure developed in what previously were tracks and almost forgotten outposts.
The visitor, who is prepared to drive a little longer in order to enjoy as yet untouched nature and get to know local people, who are simple and trusting, allowing you to visit their land and explore it at your leisure, needs to visit Kaokoland now! Here you learn to trust your instincts again and follow small district roads and hidden 4x4 tracks, going where your curiosity leads you.
Day 1 - Arriving
What used to be a hellish ride on a long dusty road coming up from Kamanjab to the place previously known as Ohopoho, is now a pleasant drive on a tarred road, which leads you along the western border of Etosha National Park past the Hobatere Lodge and Campsite and the Galton Gate (allowing access to the park from the west), thus affording the occasional spotting of game on your way to Opuwo. Let there be no doubt, that this will be your last opportunity to kit up with what was forgotten at home, because Kaokoland requires you to be fully self-sufficient right down to the last drop of fuel.
That first part of the approach journey is long, for which reason you would typically camp or stay in places such as the Opuwo Country Hotel (pleasant camping and luxurious rooms) or alternatives such as the ABBA- or Ohakane Guest Houses. Opuwo Country Lodge is found on the high western ridge bordering the town allowing for some pretty impressive views to the west towards Etanga.
Day 2 - Swartbooisdrif
Some people stay over at Ruacana and prefer to visit the Ruacana Falls, where after they follow the now existing road along the Kunene River towards Swartbooisdrif. The more traditional approach is from Opuwo leading right through the heart of Kaokoland towards the Kunene River - be sure to have lots of sweets for all of the children welcoming you. In our case, coming from Opuwo, we turned towards the north-east at Otjiveze and followed the road on the southern side of the spectacular Zebra Mountains, later turning onto the track leading to the now derelict army camp above the Sodalite Mine. You may choose to camp here - away from the mosquitoes and enjoying the majestic view towards Angola - or settle down along the Kunene River at Swartbooisdrif, which is just a few kilometres downhill and was in the past used by the old Dorsland Trekkers to cross to- or come over from Chitado - Angola.
Day 3 & 4 - The magic Epupa Falls
A leisurely start after breakfast would allow you to follow the new gravel road along the Kunene River to the Epupa Falls. Previously much liked as a 4x4 track (therefore less used way back when), this route still rewards you with most spectacular views, while allowing you to arrive at Epupa Falls in the afternoon. At Epupa you can choose to camp or book into rooms at the Epupa Falls Lodge, Omarunga Lodge or Epupa Camp. We opted for the first and were able to fill up our fuel, which we had pre-arranged and paid to the Lodge in advance, as we would depart from here to the fabled Van Zyl’s Pass.
But before that we settled for a two-night stay, as this area invites you to explore the magic Epupa Falls on-foot and offers a number of opportunities to visit the traditional Ovahimba folks living here. The falls are much smaller than the Ruacana Falls, but so much more impressive to experience, especially during a sun-downer enjoyed on the balcony of the lodge overlooking the falls.
Day 4, 5 & 6 - Rough and tough, but exquisite
Be sure to catch a last shower before departing to van Zyl’s Pass. The road to Okongwati is good, but as soon as you turn westwards towards Etengua (also Etengwa) your maps or GPS need to be up to speed as you drive along the foot of the Baynes Mountains, and your mind should be attuned to the demands of 4x4-driving. Up to Otjitanda the stretch is still reasonable, but requires you to drive patiently. We camped wild just beyond Otjitanda and took the better part of the morning approaching Van Zyl’s Pass on day 5. The approach road these days is a bigger challenge than Van Zyl’s Pass itself, but what a sight when you reach the lookout-point above the pass!
Having navigated the Pass, we followed the tracks along the Marienfluss, which is nestled between the Otjihipa Mountain range lying towards the east and the Hartmann’s Mountains lying in the west, reaching Camp Syncro close to Otjinungwa, where you also find a community camp site. This is untouched scenery, which can be explored and enjoyed for a further day.
Day 7 - Moving to Purros
This day was spent driving up the Marienfluss up to the track intersection known as Red Drum (which is exactly that) and moving onwards past the Marble Mine towards Orupembe, passing Sanitatis and skipping the Khumib River continuing towards Purros, where you find another community camp. All of these camps charge reasonable entrance fees and you find yourself voluntarily paying more than is expected of you as visitor. Along the way you may encounter elephants and lions, and certainly many giraffes.
In our case we opted to move down the Hoarusib River and camped there for the night - early in the morning elephant spoors along our vehicles proved that we had been covertly “visited”. The Hoarusib River is a magic experience.
Day 8 - Saying good bye
Taking the first opportunity to turn South we left the Hoarusib and made our way towards the Tsuxub River and on to the Hoanib River, which is a trip worthwhile doing totally on its own - approaching it from further south via the Khowarib-Schlucht (canyon). In our case we used the Hoanib as exit point moving towards Sesfontein, where we enjoyed a late lunch before parting ways and returning home via Palmwag and Kamanjab or Khorixas. This trip is pure adventure and can only be attempted well prepared and with an off-road vehicle.
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