From the Okavango to the Zambezi - Glorious Caprivi
It was at the Berlin Conference in 1890 that the modern day history of the Caprivi Region took shape. Until then the region had been known as Itenga, meaning 'separate' in the Zalamo dialect of Tanganyika, now Tanzania. And pretty much an accurate description; for this finger of land, extending to the east of the then South West Africa (SWA), measures only 480 km in length, with its width ranging from just 32 km up to a maximum of 100. To its north lie Angola and Zambia, whilst Botswana borders it to the south and east and Zimbabwe just touches the eastern extremity too. In those days Itenga fell under British rule, administered from Bechuanaland (now Botswana). However, to the German colonial powers who ruled SWA, this territory held massive importance geo-
graphically; they realised that if brought under their administration, it would give them access to the mighty Zambezi River, thence into Tanganyika (German East Africa) and finally to the Indian Ocean itself. So in Berlin, Queen Victoria ceded Itenga to the Germans in return for the Island of Zanzibar. The Germans renamed this narrow tongue as the Caprivi Zipfel (Strip) after their Chancellor, Count Georg Leo von Caprivi di Caprara di Montecuccoli.
The Okavango River marks the beginning of the Caprivi Region, at its most westerly juncture. Divundu and Bagani are villages on the river bank here, over 200 km west of Rundu on the B8 tar road. This important black top route, known originally as the Golden Highway but now as part of the Trans-Caprivi Highway, runs right through to the easternmost border with Botswana at Ngoma. The Okavango River rises in the Bié Plateau in Angola, beginning its life there as the Cubango River. It flows for some 1600 km, forming the border between Angola and Namibia; the road bridge at Divundu is where the Caprivi Strip commences from the eastern banks on, whilst its waters run finally into Botswana; here it drains into the extraordinary myriad of water channels that form the Okavango Delta.
Many tourism establishments have sprung up over the years on the western edge of the river here, between Divundu and the proclaimed Mahango Game Park. Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) offer travellers a choice of log cabin or camping accommodation at their Rest Camp close to the Popa Falls, a delightfully picturesque area of rapids where the Okavango tumbles gently a few metres at most. Some of the other ports of call include the Mahangu and Ndhovu Lodges closest to the Park itself whose eastern border allows access to Shakawe in Botswana through the Mohembo Border Post. The must visit destination here though is surely Ngepi Camp. An eclectic mix of tree houses, bush huts and campsites greet visitors of all persuasions; its extraordinarily conceived and stunningly designed ablution facilities are legendary throughout Southern Africa; service and situation are brilliant - don't miss it!
Onwards and eastwards; let's cross the river and pass through the Caprivi checkpoint. Just a kilometre or two after entering the West Caprivi Game Park, you'll find a well signed track leading off to the right. It'll take you to the rustic //Ngoabaca Community Campsite, run by the local Khwe San of West Caprivi under the auspices of the Kyaramacan Trust. Four sites here, but more so the best access to and views of the Popa Falls. Back on the highway, it's 200 km to Kongola. This whole area, to include Mahango, the Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET) Core Conservation Area at Buffalo, the West Caprivi Game Park, indeed all the land up to the Kwando River and Kongola is to be incorporated as one into the soon-to-be-proclaimed Bwabwata National Park. Unusually settlements of indigenous peoples - particularly those at Omega and Chetto - will be allowed to remain within the new park. Vegetation along this most narrow section of the Caprivi is Kalahari Woodland; mostly sandy plains dominated by tall Wild Seringa trees along with the Combretum family, and to a lesser extent, Kiaat, False Mopane and Mangetti trees. Silver Terminalia form the lower tree layer in the main. Grass cover is not great. Watch out for elephant crossing the road throughout this section.
Kongola brings us to the ubiquitous Kwando River and another glorious corner of the Caprivi. This river winds its way for over 700 km from its source in central Angola, dividing that country from Zambia before running through the Caprivi and along the north eastern boundary of Botswana, finally joining the mighty Zambezi above the Victoria Falls. Its very waters, banks, plentiful reed and papyrus beds and surrounding savannah are home to a wonderful array of wild and aquatic life and especially birdlife; small, scattered communities of the indigenous Mafwe people do their best to eke out a rudimentary but crucial living from the harsh splendour all around them. The Kwando is a real enigma; as it nears the Linyanti Swamps further to the east, the river becomes known as the Linyanti. Further towards its confluence with the Zambezi, it is retitled the Chobe River. If the Zambezi is full and running fast, its waters will actually force the Chobe to back up and even flow back towards the Linyanti too, thus linking with the Kwando itself. Should levels be so high as to fill Lake Liambezi, dry now since 1997, that route would also link the Kwando and the Zambezi too. Meanwhile, when levels rise substantially in the Okavango, water can push from there through the Selinda Spillway and into the Kwando too!
Permits available at the Susuwe Ranger Station close to Kongola or from the MET offices in Katima Mulilo will allow you to enter and enjoy the stunning scenery, wildlife and birdlife of the forthcoming Bwabwata National Park close to the Kwando. A 4x4 vehicle is a necessity, since the demarcated tracks run regularly through areas of deep, soft sand. A particularly awesome experience is to visit the 'Horseshoe' on the Kwando River; allow a half day (preferably afternoon, towards sunset) to reach this natural curve on the river. You'll see elephant, sometimes in big numbers, buffalo and many more antelope species besides, along with a myriad warblers, weavers and coucals. Overnight, you can stay at Susuwe Island Lodge on the banks of the Kwando; owned and operated by Islands in Africa, they are just introducing some keen rates for self-drive aficionados. If you're running with canvas, a great option in these parts, then do no more than head for Nambwa Campsite in the Park itself. It's between the tar road at Kongola (about 13 km) and Horseshoe Bend. The Kwando Conservancy also operates a lovely campsite near the Ranger Station just across the tar road; Bum Hill has wonderful elevated decks allowing fantastic views of the river and surrounding flood plains. Another great site.
Pass through the checkpoint on the highway, and on reaching Kongola itself, turn right onto the D3511 (MR125) gravel road - direction Sangwali and Linyanti. In fact, this route makes a huge loop and ends up in Katima Mulilo itself; a pleasant alternative to the black top. Within 50 km you'll come across three more accommodation possibilities. First Namushasha Lodge, geared for the middle market; next Camp Kwando - three tiers: luxury tree house bungalows, pastoral thatched chalets on the river and a well shaded, well-equipped camping area. Last, but not least, Lianshulu Lodge which sits inside Mudumu National Park, courtesy of the fact that it was up and running before the Park itself was proclaimed in 1989! Its reputation goes before it; pleasant accommodation, superb communal lapa areas, knowledgeable guides and good food. Great place to take a boat trip. Mudumu National Park itself is forested much akin to West Caprivi. It's remote and runs to about 80,000 hectares.
But for those in search of a real wilderness experience, then Mamili is the Caprivi's piece-de-résistance. Through Sangwali village, having turned right off the D3511, and fork left past the Sheshe Craft sales hut. You'll need to now follow the track to your left - the one-time entrance road remains flooded and a bridge over a deep channel permanently impassable - to the point where Linus Mukwata, resident of Sangwali and an entrepreneur if ever there was one, has constructed a bridge of locally hewn poles across another wide channel. It looks precarious, and the crocs can look hungry, but it will be N$40 well spent. After a few kilometres and a second Mukwata cross-channel construction, Mamili! Report to the Ranger Station just inside the Park for your permit and an update on conditions from the MET staff. Mamili National Park is real wetlands; some say that the water levels and channels inside the Park follow a twenty odd year cycle of wet / dry. 2006 apparently heralded a return to the wet. Much of the Park is therefore not navigable by any means, except on foot. The MET will happily point out on a local hand-drawn map which tracks are safe to drive. 4x4 only, of course; Mparamura campsite is usually reachable, the stunning campsite at Liadura not always so.
From Mamili, a trip into Katima Mulilo makes sense. The capital of the region since the 30's, displacing Schuckmannsburg; the town has a great vibe. Hopefully the major developments in the town centre and of the new Waterfront on the Zambezi will only add value for tourists. Choice here? Make for Caprivi River Lodge and meet Keith and Mary Rooken-Smith. Another port of call might be to Francois and Chantal Haasbroek who started Caprivi Houseboat Safaris a year ago; spend a few days on the river, going perhaps as far as the Chobe, or simply meander and fish to your heart's content. At Island View Lodge, near Kalimbeza, about 30 minutes out of town, Mike and Stephanie Cavanagh offer both chalets and camping. Kalizo Lodge (some 40 km's east to Katima) will also gladly entertain birders and help anglers find some super Tiger Fish, Bream, Catfish and African Pike. Kalimbeza is only 65 kms from Ngoma, and the border post servicing Botswana, the road to Francistown, Martin's Drift and home; but one last treat beckons, if you have kept some funds in reserve
Through Customs at Ngoma, and to Kasane via the Chobe National Park. At Kasane, you leave Bots again, and your Islands in Africa boat guide collects you, takes you down the Chobe River to Impalila Island Immigration (Nam once more) and then along the Kasai Channel that links the Chobe to the Zambezi. Destination, Impalila Island Lodge, another Islands in Africa establishment. Here you'll find what is widely believed to be the best Tiger Fishing on the planet, a nearby Baobab tree that you can climb and look down on the only place in the world where four countries meet.(Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe). IIA have been doing the job a long time and you'll be really well looked after, but it is not for camping fees. Their neighbouring Ntwala Lodge, just a ten minute boat ride away, has perhaps the finest 4 suites in Namibia. Serious second honeymoon stuff! But then again any visit to the Caprivi region would seem like a honeymoon...
Neil Digby-Clarke
graphically; they realised that if brought under their administration, it would give them access to the mighty Zambezi River, thence into Tanganyika (German East Africa) and finally to the Indian Ocean itself. So in Berlin, Queen Victoria ceded Itenga to the Germans in return for the Island of Zanzibar. The Germans renamed this narrow tongue as the Caprivi Zipfel (Strip) after their Chancellor, Count Georg Leo von Caprivi di Caprara di Montecuccoli.
The Okavango River marks the beginning of the Caprivi Region, at its most westerly juncture. Divundu and Bagani are villages on the river bank here, over 200 km west of Rundu on the B8 tar road. This important black top route, known originally as the Golden Highway but now as part of the Trans-Caprivi Highway, runs right through to the easternmost border with Botswana at Ngoma. The Okavango River rises in the Bié Plateau in Angola, beginning its life there as the Cubango River. It flows for some 1600 km, forming the border between Angola and Namibia; the road bridge at Divundu is where the Caprivi Strip commences from the eastern banks on, whilst its waters run finally into Botswana; here it drains into the extraordinary myriad of water channels that form the Okavango Delta.
Many tourism establishments have sprung up over the years on the western edge of the river here, between Divundu and the proclaimed Mahango Game Park. Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) offer travellers a choice of log cabin or camping accommodation at their Rest Camp close to the Popa Falls, a delightfully picturesque area of rapids where the Okavango tumbles gently a few metres at most. Some of the other ports of call include the Mahangu and Ndhovu Lodges closest to the Park itself whose eastern border allows access to Shakawe in Botswana through the Mohembo Border Post. The must visit destination here though is surely Ngepi Camp. An eclectic mix of tree houses, bush huts and campsites greet visitors of all persuasions; its extraordinarily conceived and stunningly designed ablution facilities are legendary throughout Southern Africa; service and situation are brilliant - don't miss it!
Onwards and eastwards; let's cross the river and pass through the Caprivi checkpoint. Just a kilometre or two after entering the West Caprivi Game Park, you'll find a well signed track leading off to the right. It'll take you to the rustic //Ngoabaca Community Campsite, run by the local Khwe San of West Caprivi under the auspices of the Kyaramacan Trust. Four sites here, but more so the best access to and views of the Popa Falls. Back on the highway, it's 200 km to Kongola. This whole area, to include Mahango, the Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET) Core Conservation Area at Buffalo, the West Caprivi Game Park, indeed all the land up to the Kwando River and Kongola is to be incorporated as one into the soon-to-be-proclaimed Bwabwata National Park. Unusually settlements of indigenous peoples - particularly those at Omega and Chetto - will be allowed to remain within the new park. Vegetation along this most narrow section of the Caprivi is Kalahari Woodland; mostly sandy plains dominated by tall Wild Seringa trees along with the Combretum family, and to a lesser extent, Kiaat, False Mopane and Mangetti trees. Silver Terminalia form the lower tree layer in the main. Grass cover is not great. Watch out for elephant crossing the road throughout this section.
Kongola brings us to the ubiquitous Kwando River and another glorious corner of the Caprivi. This river winds its way for over 700 km from its source in central Angola, dividing that country from Zambia before running through the Caprivi and along the north eastern boundary of Botswana, finally joining the mighty Zambezi above the Victoria Falls. Its very waters, banks, plentiful reed and papyrus beds and surrounding savannah are home to a wonderful array of wild and aquatic life and especially birdlife; small, scattered communities of the indigenous Mafwe people do their best to eke out a rudimentary but crucial living from the harsh splendour all around them. The Kwando is a real enigma; as it nears the Linyanti Swamps further to the east, the river becomes known as the Linyanti. Further towards its confluence with the Zambezi, it is retitled the Chobe River. If the Zambezi is full and running fast, its waters will actually force the Chobe to back up and even flow back towards the Linyanti too, thus linking with the Kwando itself. Should levels be so high as to fill Lake Liambezi, dry now since 1997, that route would also link the Kwando and the Zambezi too. Meanwhile, when levels rise substantially in the Okavango, water can push from there through the Selinda Spillway and into the Kwando too!
Permits available at the Susuwe Ranger Station close to Kongola or from the MET offices in Katima Mulilo will allow you to enter and enjoy the stunning scenery, wildlife and birdlife of the forthcoming Bwabwata National Park close to the Kwando. A 4x4 vehicle is a necessity, since the demarcated tracks run regularly through areas of deep, soft sand. A particularly awesome experience is to visit the 'Horseshoe' on the Kwando River; allow a half day (preferably afternoon, towards sunset) to reach this natural curve on the river. You'll see elephant, sometimes in big numbers, buffalo and many more antelope species besides, along with a myriad warblers, weavers and coucals. Overnight, you can stay at Susuwe Island Lodge on the banks of the Kwando; owned and operated by Islands in Africa, they are just introducing some keen rates for self-drive aficionados. If you're running with canvas, a great option in these parts, then do no more than head for Nambwa Campsite in the Park itself. It's between the tar road at Kongola (about 13 km) and Horseshoe Bend. The Kwando Conservancy also operates a lovely campsite near the Ranger Station just across the tar road; Bum Hill has wonderful elevated decks allowing fantastic views of the river and surrounding flood plains. Another great site.
Pass through the checkpoint on the highway, and on reaching Kongola itself, turn right onto the D3511 (MR125) gravel road - direction Sangwali and Linyanti. In fact, this route makes a huge loop and ends up in Katima Mulilo itself; a pleasant alternative to the black top. Within 50 km you'll come across three more accommodation possibilities. First Namushasha Lodge, geared for the middle market; next Camp Kwando - three tiers: luxury tree house bungalows, pastoral thatched chalets on the river and a well shaded, well-equipped camping area. Last, but not least, Lianshulu Lodge which sits inside Mudumu National Park, courtesy of the fact that it was up and running before the Park itself was proclaimed in 1989! Its reputation goes before it; pleasant accommodation, superb communal lapa areas, knowledgeable guides and good food. Great place to take a boat trip. Mudumu National Park itself is forested much akin to West Caprivi. It's remote and runs to about 80,000 hectares.
But for those in search of a real wilderness experience, then Mamili is the Caprivi's piece-de-résistance. Through Sangwali village, having turned right off the D3511, and fork left past the Sheshe Craft sales hut. You'll need to now follow the track to your left - the one-time entrance road remains flooded and a bridge over a deep channel permanently impassable - to the point where Linus Mukwata, resident of Sangwali and an entrepreneur if ever there was one, has constructed a bridge of locally hewn poles across another wide channel. It looks precarious, and the crocs can look hungry, but it will be N$40 well spent. After a few kilometres and a second Mukwata cross-channel construction, Mamili! Report to the Ranger Station just inside the Park for your permit and an update on conditions from the MET staff. Mamili National Park is real wetlands; some say that the water levels and channels inside the Park follow a twenty odd year cycle of wet / dry. 2006 apparently heralded a return to the wet. Much of the Park is therefore not navigable by any means, except on foot. The MET will happily point out on a local hand-drawn map which tracks are safe to drive. 4x4 only, of course; Mparamura campsite is usually reachable, the stunning campsite at Liadura not always so.
From Mamili, a trip into Katima Mulilo makes sense. The capital of the region since the 30's, displacing Schuckmannsburg; the town has a great vibe. Hopefully the major developments in the town centre and of the new Waterfront on the Zambezi will only add value for tourists. Choice here? Make for Caprivi River Lodge and meet Keith and Mary Rooken-Smith. Another port of call might be to Francois and Chantal Haasbroek who started Caprivi Houseboat Safaris a year ago; spend a few days on the river, going perhaps as far as the Chobe, or simply meander and fish to your heart's content. At Island View Lodge, near Kalimbeza, about 30 minutes out of town, Mike and Stephanie Cavanagh offer both chalets and camping. Kalizo Lodge (some 40 km's east to Katima) will also gladly entertain birders and help anglers find some super Tiger Fish, Bream, Catfish and African Pike. Kalimbeza is only 65 kms from Ngoma, and the border post servicing Botswana, the road to Francistown, Martin's Drift and home; but one last treat beckons, if you have kept some funds in reserve
Through Customs at Ngoma, and to Kasane via the Chobe National Park. At Kasane, you leave Bots again, and your Islands in Africa boat guide collects you, takes you down the Chobe River to Impalila Island Immigration (Nam once more) and then along the Kasai Channel that links the Chobe to the Zambezi. Destination, Impalila Island Lodge, another Islands in Africa establishment. Here you'll find what is widely believed to be the best Tiger Fishing on the planet, a nearby Baobab tree that you can climb and look down on the only place in the world where four countries meet.(Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe). IIA have been doing the job a long time and you'll be really well looked after, but it is not for camping fees. Their neighbouring Ntwala Lodge, just a ten minute boat ride away, has perhaps the finest 4 suites in Namibia. Serious second honeymoon stuff! But then again any visit to the Caprivi region would seem like a honeymoon...
Neil Digby-Clarke
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